Over the world

12 факта за Амстердам и нашият малък трип

Амстердам или градът, който ме плени само за 3 дни… ама наистина.

Това няма да бъде гайд(а), който да ви каже кои музеи да посетите задължително и кои са най-туристическите места, защото аз просто не съм такъв човек. Някак си имам усещането, че препускайки между забележителностите, човек изпуска истински важните неща за мястото на което се намира.

Не знам дали се впечатлих от града, защото това ми е първото пътуване на запад или защото по късметлийски хванахме първите слънчеви дни в годината, или заради ударното въведение в него – нашият домакин ни посреща на гарата и ни съобщи че сме дошли точно навреме. Неусетно вече беше хванал куфара ми и ни водеше към така популярните червени фенери 😀 Но за тях по-надолу.

Всъщност първият (и единствен за престоя) проблем дойде на другата сутрин. Бяхме си легнали късно след дълги приказки и студени холандски бири в уютното таванско жилище на нашия хост и само четири часа по-късно…

Чували ли сте за Munttoren („Mint Tower“) или Munt?

Това е кула в центъра на площад Muntplein, където се срещат р.Amstel и каналът Singel. До него е позициониран пазар за цветя (където освен лалета във всякакви цветове, можете да намерите и букет божури за 8,50 euro) и източния край на Kalverstraat shopping street.

Та, тази същата кула има камбана, която започва да бие в 8:00 сутринта и така поне по 3 пъти на всеки час, до към 11 вечерта. Ако и вие отсядате някъде в околността е много вероятно просто да свикнете с нея… или пък не.

Едно бързо кафе ни върна към живота и излязохме за брънч в The Butcher Social club. Мястото се намира на другия край на центъра, така че имахме възможност да се разходим по пътя, да се влюбя във всички сгради, да ми замирише на трева и почти да ме блъсне колоездач (най-малко веднъж). Стигнахме до Amsterdam centraal пеша (авто и жп гара в едно) и от там се качихме на ферибот за около 2 минути, който ни „прехвърли“ отвъд реката Ай (пише се Ij, произнася се Ай, но навсякъде по българските сайтове си я пише като „Иж“). Фериботът е безплатен за всички и идва на всеки 10 минути – по-бързо дори и от влакчето по линия 2 на Софийското метро.

Момчетата хапнаха бургери, аз wrap, пихме по една бира – аз се възползвах да се разходя из впечатляващия дизайн на мястото, а те да си починат и отново тръгнахме по прашния път на туриста.

Надписът IAMSTERDAM е преместен точно на площада пред The Butcher, така че успяхме да се вредим и за снимка там (постоянно има хора и направо се чудя кой успява да не хване никой друг в кадъра си).

Наобратно тръгнахме в посока музеят на Немо (на науката и технологията). Качихме се на покрива му, за да се насладим на гледката към стария град на Амстердам. Ние си умряхме от жега, а децата просто се къпеха на фонтаните (видяхте ли, не го правят само циганчетата в България).

Интересен е фактът, че музеят е облечен от медни листове, които твърде бързо са се патинирали в зелено от тежкия климат на Нидерландия.

След това оставихме едната половина от бандата да си разпуска, а ние с чиче ви продължихме, въпреки жегата и въпреки, че той последно вървя толкова в Рим 😀

Следобеда прекарахме в разходка до Museumplein (Museum square), където се намират Националният музей Rijks, музеят на Van Gogh и музеят на модерните и постмодерните изкуства Stedelijk. Мястото има огромен парк, в който хората четат, събират тен или просто си разпускат, а във фонтанът до него децата се къпят, а повечето възрастни топят крака. Използват площада и за фестивали, шампионати, тържества и пр.

Вторият ден започна с магазинът на TheSchoolOfLife Amsterdam, където трябва да отидете, ако четейки блога, сте намерили поне нещо сходно с мен. Ще ви копирам тук три изречения, които би трябвало да ви дадат представа, какво, аджеба, е това място: The School of Life is a global organisation helping people lead more fulfilled lives. Select the area you wish to improve in and discover a range of our tools and suggestions. We recommend Self-Knowledge as a safe place to start if you are unsure.

Техни магазини има в 11 града, пръснати по целия свят, а в тях ще намерите книги, карти и игри, целящи да ви покажат и напомнят онези малки неща, които забравяме в лудото ежедневие и особено храна за душата. Self-Knowledge е и моят старт – началото на колекционерство.

Запасихме се с бира, нещо солено и нещо сладко и се запътихме към едно от местата, които отдават лодки под наем. Те трябва да бъдат запазени винаги поне няколко дни по-рано, особено ако времето ще бъде хубаво. Слагам линкове към надеждни наемодатели тук и тук.

Отново нещо, което ми беше много интересно – не е проблем да пушиш марихуана, където и да било, но е забранено да пиеш алкохол на обществени места (извън заведения). Очевидно, за лодките това не важи. Вариантът да избегнеш тази забрана е, да опаковаш бутилката бира в нещо, за да не се вижда. Мисля си, че идеята зад това е, просто да консумираш алкохол по барове, защото там е 3 пъти по-скъпо 😀 .

Чувството да се движиш по каналите с лодка, определено е нещо, което трябва да се изпита. Предоставя едно усещане за релакс от всички тези туристи и колелета, дебнещи отвсякъде, една свобода… абе, дишаш по-различно. Особено ако не си капитанът, защото в противен случай, на теб е възложена тежката задача да дадеш всичко от себе си да не се блъскаш в останалите лодки, тунели и да не влизаш на забранено 😀 Ние направихме реалност и от трите, като за финал се оказахме в Ай, сред огромни товарни кораби и не много оставащо време да се върнем, но си струваше.

Всъщност, за да наемеш и управляваш лодка, не се иска почти нищо, освен пари, лична карта и депозит, а аз бих казала, че са нужни някакви умения по ориентация, координация… Нямам идея какво се случи с 6-те туристки, които се качиха на лодка след нас.

Навръщане, минахме през музея на Anne Frank, който вече беше затворил, но ако вие планирате да го посетите, задължително купете билети онлайн, за да си спестите поне малко от чакането…

В деня, в който трябваше да тръгнем, се сбогувахме с невероятната градска атмосфера в огромния Vondelpark, който е построен върху блатиста местност и на всеки 30 години се налага пълна реновация.

Знаете ли, че:

– Опциите да стигнеш до града са или с полет на Wizz/Riyanair до Eindhoven, a после бърз влак до Amsterdam Centraal или с директен полет на BulgariaAir/Transavia. Летището е огромно, но от него директно купуваш билет за влакче (ок. 5euro) и слизаш на перона – следващата спирка е Amsterdam centraal – няма и 15 минути.

– Airbnb & Booking са по-скъпи опции за града, защото държавата ограничава отдаването под наем до 30 дни годишно, за да не вреди на хотелския бизнес. Това е и причината навсякъде да има малки и симпатични хотелчета.

– Сградите са много тесни, а със стълбищата дори и трезвен човек не се справя лесно (освен тесни са и стръмни), защото когато навремето са се купували парцели и се е строяло, колкото по широко е пространството, толкова по-скъпо излиза. А куките на върха на всяка сграда са се използвали и се използват за качване на големи вещи (каквато покъщнина се сетите). Дори моряците са качвали улова си там и са го държали на тавана, защото влагата на приземния етаж го е правила невъзможна за съхранение.

– Колкото и да е странно холандците нямат такова нещо като „своя кухня“ – специфични биха могли да се нарекат единствено пържените картофки с различни сосове… За сметка на това, в Амстердам, може да се нагледате (а вероятно и нахраните) на ресторанти с кухни от всяка точка на света, кой от кой по-интересен и привлекателен. В тази връзка, ако си падате по херинга, намерете караваната на Stubbe Haring и опитайте, казват, че е must. Много често срещани са и азиатските ресторанти – чиче ви пробва рамен с нудли и разни морски работи и не знам дали ще си поръча пак, но със сигурност беше интересен вкус.

– От друга страна, холандските бири трябва да бъдат опитани!

– Струва си да отделиш време за няколко музея – Амстердам има по един музей на глава на населението, но определено следващ път за мен там ще има, защото разбрах, че си струва да се посетят – минимум тези, които изброих по-горе + Музеят на Amstel и Музеят на проституцията, чиято идея е много интересна.

– Разходка с лодка – тази, която наехме ние, струваше 100 euro, но ако сте по-малко хора бихте могли да се възползвате от другите опции – парти лодка или туристическа такава за около 10 euro на човек.

– Денят на лалетата – ако се озовете в Амстердам през третата събота от януари, то сте точно навреме за Деня на лалетата – на централния площад „Дам“, ежегодно там се засаждат 200 000 лалета и всеки може да си набере безплатно от тях. Градината отваря в 13ч., но бъдете там по-рано.

– Cash free – в голяма част от веригите магазини и франчайзи не може да се плаща с кеш. В някои от тях не може да се плаща и с Visa cards, така че следете внимателно и не обръщайте като луди левове в евро – няма да има къде да ги използвате.

– Знаете ли защо всъщност Холандия е държавата с най-много велосипедисти? Още преди Втората световна война пътуванията в Холандия на по-кратки разстояния са се извършвали предимно с велосипед. През 50-те и 60-те години обаче страната става подвластна на световната автомобилна инвазия. Развива се междуселищната инфраструктура и, както в много други държави в Европа, колите бавно започват да изтласкват водачите на екологичния траспорт отстрани на пътя. Резкият скок на броя на автомобилите, съчетан с недостатъчно развити пътища, довежда до множество жертви. През 1971 г. около 3000 души в Холандия са убити от моторни превозни средства на пътя. 450 от тях са деца. В отговор, в Холандия се заражда социално движение, настояващо за безопасно велосипедно придвижване за децата, организирано под надслов „Спрете убийствата на деца“. Останалото е история.

– В Амстердам специално почти не виждахме автомобили – съответно въздухът беше адски свеж. За да подкрепи държавата социалното движение, тя изгражда законите така, че хората почти да не могат да си позволят автомобил. За трите си дни там на пръстите на едната си ръка мога да изброя автомобилите, които бяха с дизелов двигател. За тях данъците са огромни, а за да паркираш някъде плащаш минимум 5 euro на час. От друга страна за електромобилите данъци няма, паркингът е безплатен, а в случай, че в близост до дома ви няма зарядно за колата ви, държавата ти осигурява такова. Разбира се, миниколичките, които могат да спират навсякъде и са освободени от данъци, са доста по-скъпи от останалите.

– На Червените фенери снимките са забранени, ако пък усетят, че ги снимате, ще си имате проблеми. В малките улички на така популярния квартал има над 400 витрини с жени, които плащат около 150 euro за малка стаичка със стол и легло. За мен беше интересно как разсъджават и живеят отвъд витрината – това предлага Музеят на проституцията. Преди три дни първата жена кмет на Амстердам постави началото на план за закриване на витрините, преместване на бордеите от центъра на града на друго място и увеличаване на изискванията за работничките там. Така че ако сте решили да видите Червените фенери в истинския им вид – сега е моментът.

Музеите, Coffee shop-овете и Instagramable заведенията (като ледения бар) остават за следващото ми пътуване, защото такова със сигурност ще има.

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